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Massasoit's Town 

Sowams in Pokanoket 



ITS HISTORY LEGENDS 
AND TRADITIONS 



By VIRGINIA BAKER 

Author of 
The History of Warren, R. I. in the War of the Revolution 



PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR 

Warren, R. I. 

1904 





Two C» 


MAR g 1904 


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" Warren! where first beside the cradled nation, 
The old chief stood, we love thy storied past, 

' Sowams is pleasant for a habitation ' — 

'Twas thy first history — may it be thy last." 

— Hezekiah Butter worth. 



Copyright 1904 by Virginia Baker 




Massasoit's Town 
Sowams in Pokanoket 






A PECULIAR interest centres about everything per- 
taining to the great Wampanoag sachem Massasoit. 
Massasoit has always, and justly, been regarded as 
one of the most remarkable of that group of 
illustrious aboriginal chieftains with whom the early white 
settlers of New England were associated. But while the 
student of history is familiar with the story of the Indian 
king's life-long allegiance to our forefathers, while he 
admires in the untutored savage virtues few Christian 
monarchs have possessed, he knows comparatively little of 
the environments that helped to mould a character of so 
unique a stamp. The ancient chroniclers often allude to 
Massasoit's place of residence, and the questions that naturally 
present themselves are: Where was this place? Why did 
Massasoit select it for his abode? What is its history? To 
answer these questions, in part at least, is the object of this 
sketch. 

At the period when the Mayflower came to anchor in 
Plymouth harbor, Massasoit exercised dominion over nearly 
all the south-eastern part of Massachusetts from Cape Cod 
to Narragansett Bay. The south-western section of his king- 
dom was known as Pokanoket, Sowams, or Sowamsett. It 
included what now comprises the towns of Bristol, Warren, 
Barrington, and East Providence in Rhode Island, with 
portions of Seekonk, Swansea, and Rehoboth in Massachu- 
setts. Though its area was only about 500 square miles 
Pokanoket, owing to its many natural advantages, was more 



M a s s a s o i t ' s Town 



densely populated than any other part of the Wampanoag 
country. Its principal settlement was the village of Sowams, 
where Massasoit maintained his headquarters, and where, 
without doubt, the greater portion of his life was passed. 

For many years the exact location of this village was a 
disputed point, authorities variously fixing it at Bristol, 
Barrington, and Warren. The late Gen. Guy M. Fessenden 
was the first to demonstrate, conclusively, tha^ Sowams 
occupied the site of the last mentioned place. The results 
of his careful and painstaking investigation of the claims of 
the three towns may be found in the short but valuable his- 
torical sketch of Warren published by General Fessenden 
in 1845* 

One familiar with the Pokanoket region readily perceives 
why Massasoit placed his capital where he did. Warren is 
situated midway between Barrington and Bristol, on an 
arm of Narragansett Bay, and is bounded on the north and 
east by the State of Massachusetts. A glance ac the map 
of Rhode Island will show the reader that, at Warren, which 
is farther inland than either of its sister towns, the Wampa- 
noags were, in a great measure, protected from the danger 
of sudden attack by their enemies, the Narragansetts who 
dwelt upon the opposite shore of the bay,f and that, in case 
of hostile invasion, they were easily able to retire to less 
exposed portions of their domains. 

The Indians were always particular to locate their per- 
manent villages in the vicinity of springs of running water. 
Warren abounds in such springs. Its soil is generally fertile 
and its climate agreeable and healthy, as, owing to its some- 
what inland position, it escapes the full rigor of the fierce 



*See also, "Sowams, the Home of Massasoit: Where Was It?" by 
Virginia Baker, N. E. Hist, and Gen. Register, July, 1899. 

t The Narragansetts occupied what is now Washington County, Rhode 
Island 



Sow a"m s in Pokanoket 5 

winds, that, during the winter months, sweep the unsheltered 
shores of Bristol. In the days when the Wampanoags in- 
habited its territory, it was well timbered, and grapes, cherries, 
huckleberries, and other wild fruits grew abundantly in 
field and swamp. Its rivers teemed with fish of many vari- 
eties, and also yielded a plentiful supply of lobsters, crabs, 
oysters, clams, quahaugs, and mussels. Flocks of wild 
fowl haunted its marshes; deer and smaller game frequented 
its woods. Even in those seasons when food became gen- 
erally scarce, the dwellers at Sowams probably suffered little 
from hunger in comparison with the inhabitants of many 
sections of New England less favored by nature. 

At Sowams, too, every facility for the manufacture of 
the shell beads used as currency by the aborigines was to be 
found. Any one who chose might become a natouwompitea, 
or coiner, and literally, "make as much money," as he 
wished. From the rocks at hand the savage artificer shaped 
the rude implements which his craft demanded. The waters 
gave him freely the periwinkle and the quahaug. From 
the former he cut the wampum * or white beads. Of the 
"eye," or dark portion of the latter, he fashioned the more 
aluable black beads called suckauhock. These beads were 
made into necklaces, scarfs, belts, girdles, bracelets, caps 
and other articles of dress and ornament "curiously strung," 
says Roger Williams, "into many forms and figures, their 
black and white finely mixed together." Not infrequently 
a savage arrayed in gala attire carried upon this person his 
entire stock of ready money. Governor Bradford states 
that the Narragansetts and Pequots grew "rich and potent" 
by the manufacture of wampum and, presumably, wealth 
contributed in no small degree towards establishing the 
pre&tige of the Wampanoags. 

* This name, although originally applied only to the white beads, came, 
in time, to signify both white and black. 



Massasoit's Town 



This tribe, properly speaking, was a confederation of clans 
each clan having its own headman who was, however, sub- 
servient to a chief sachem. The Wampanoags, or Pokanokets 
as they were also called, were originally a populous and 
powerful people and it is said that, at one period, their chief 
was able to rally around him no less than 3,000 warriors. 
The father of Massasoit, according to the testimony of his 
illustrious son,* waged war successfully against the Narra- 
gansetts ; and Annawon, King Philip's great captain, boasted 
to his captor, Church, of the "mighty success he had formerly 
in wars against many nations of Indians, when he served 
Asuhmequin, Philip's father." About three years before 
the settlement of Plymouth, however, a terrible plague de- 
vastated the country of the Wampanoags and greatly dimin- 
ished their numbers. Governor Bradford, alluding to this 
pestilence, states that "thousands of them dyed, they not 
being able to burie one another," and that "their sculs and 
bones were found in many places lying still above ground, 
where their houses and dwellings had been; a very sad 
specktacle to behould." The Narragansetts who were 
so fortunate as to escape the plague, took advantage of 
the weakness of their ancient foes, wrested from them one 
of the fairest portions of their domain the island of Aquid- 
neck, (Rhode Island) and compelled Massasoit to subject 
"himself and his lands," to their great sachem Canonicus. 
In 1620, the Pokanoket chieftain could summon to his aid 
only about 300 fighting men, sixty of whom were his imme- 
diate followers. Yet Massasoit, despite his weakness, con- 
trived to maintain his supremacy over the petty sachems 
of the various clans of the Wampanoag confederacy. The 
sagamores of the Islands of Nantucket and Nope or Capa- 
wack (Martha's Vineyard), of Pocasset, (Tiverton), Saconet 



* See Deposition of Roger Williams. 



S o w a m s in Pokanoket 7 

(Little Compton), Namasket (Middleborough), Nobsquasset 
(Yarmouth), Monamoit (Chatham), Nauset (Eastham), 
Patuxet (Plymouth), and other places, together with the 
headmen of some of the Nipmuc nation, were tributary to 
him. Undoubtedly some of these chiefs were allied to Massa- 
soit by ties of consanguinity or mutual interests; others, 
probably, rendered homage as conquered to conqueror. 

Like the Narragansetts, the Wampanoags were consider- 
ably advanced in civilization. They built permanent villages , 
and cultivated corn, beans, pumpkins, and squashes. They 
manufactured cooking utensils of stone and clay,* and rude 
implements for domestic and war-like purposes from shells, 
stone, and bone. They prepared the greater part of their 
food by the aid of fire and their cookery was, by no means, 
unpalatable. The famed Rhode Island Johnny cake and 
still more famous Rhode Island clam bake each claim an 
Indian origin. They understood how to dress birch and 
chestnut bark which they used for covering their wigwams, 
and they constructed canoes by hollowing out the trunks of 
large trees. Of rushes and grasses they wove mats and 
baskets, and the}' fashioned moccasins, leggings, and other 
articles of apparel from the skins of wild beasts. They were 
very accurate in their observations of the weather, and spent 
much time in studying the heavens, being familiar with the 
motions of the stars, and having names for many of the 
constellations. In common with the other native tribes of 
North America, they worshipped various gods, peopling 
earth, air, sky, and sea with deities; yet they acknowledged 
one supreme being, and believed in the immortality of the 
soul. 

It is obvious that Massasoit possessed mental endowments 
of no mean order, and it is equally obvious that his environ- 

* Undoubtedly much of the clay used in Pokanoket was procured at 
Barrington and North Swansea. 



8 Massasoit's Town 



ments were precisely those best calculated to develop a 
character naturally strong. He dwelt in a land which, if 
not literally flowing with milk and honey, abounded with 
everything needful to supply the simple wants of savage life, 
and thus he escaped those demoralizing influences which 
attend the struggle for mere existence. The proximity of 
a powerful enemy rendered him, cautious, alert, and vigilant. 
His position as the chief of a considerable confederacy in- 
vested him with dignity, and called into activity all those 
statesman-like qualities for which he was so justly famed. 
Winslow describes him as "grave of countenance, spare of 
speech," and this description tallies exactly with our ideal 
of the man. General Fessenden remarks: "This chief has 
never had full justice done to his character." Certainly it 
was no ordinary man who, conquered himself, still retained 
the respect and allegiance of several clans, differing in thought, 
mode of life, and interests. It was no ordinary man who, un- 
daunted by misfortune, endured the yoke patiently till the 
opportunity to throw it off presented itself, and then quietly 
taking advantage of the auspicious moment accomplished 
the liberation of himself and his people from a servitude 
more bitter than death itself. 

Massasoit was familiar with the appearance of white men 
before the arrival of the Pilgrims at Plymouth. In 1619, 
Captain Thomas Dermer, an Englishman, visited the Massa- 
chusetts coast and held an interview at Namasket with "two 
kings" of Pokanoket, undoubtedly Massasoit and his brother 
Quadequina. The English were regarded with suspicion 
and dislike by some of the tribes of the Wampanoag con- 
federacy, owing to the fact that a certain unscrupulous trader * 
had kidnapped some of the natives and sold them into slavery 

* Captain Thomas Hunt. He sold the Indians, Winslow tells us, for 
£20 apiece "like a wretched man that cares not what mischief he doth 
for his profit." 



Sowams in Pokanoket 9 

in Spain. Had the English attempted a settlement at 
Plymouth when the Pokanokets were at the zenith of their 
power, they would, probably, have been either exterminated 
or driven from the country. But, in 1620, Massasoit, whose 
fortunes were at the ebb, stood ready to extend the right- 
hand of fellowship to the pale-faced strangers, in whom he 
perceived the possible deliverers of his nation. The treaty 
with the Pilgrims into which he entered at Plymouth in 
March, 1621, was the bold stroke of a wise statesman and 
an experienced politician. The article in the treaty which 
stipulated that the English should aid him if "any did un- 
justly war against him" makes his position plain. "We 
cannot yet conceive but that he is willing to have peace with 
us," writes Winslow, alluding to this treaty. "And especially 
because he hath a potent adversary, the Narrowhigansets 
that are at war with him; against whom, he thinks, we may 
be some strength to him; for our pieces are terrible unto 
them." Subsequent events proved that Massasoit 's policy 
was not at fault for, with the assistance of his white allies, he 
was finally enabled to throw off the galling yoke of Canonicus, 
and to restore the Wampanoags to their old-time position of 
independence and power. 

In July, 1621, Governor William Bradford decided to send 
a deputation to Pokanoket, to "discover the country," to 
"continue the league of peace and friendship" which had 
been entered into a few months previous at Plymouth, and 
to procure corn for planting. Provided with gifts, a horseman's 
laced coat of red cotton and a chain, Edward Winslow and 
Stephen Hopkins set out from Plymouth on Monday, July 2d, 
having for a guide Tisquantum, or Squanto, the friendly 
Indian whose name appears so conspicuously in the early 
annals of Plymouth. The trail followed led the travellers 
through Titicut in the north-west part of Middle borough, 
where they spent the night, to Taunton, thence to Mattapoiset 



10 Massasoit's Town 

(South Swansea) and from there to Kickemuit in the easterly 
part of Warren. Undoubtedly the Kickemuit River was 
crossed at a wading-place, often alluded to in the early records 
of Warren, which was at a point a little north of the present 
Child Street bridge. From Kickemuit they continued on 
to So warns in the western part of the town on the shores 
of the Warren River, then known as the Sowams River. There 
seems little reason to doubt that, in going from Kickemuit 
to Sowams, they followed a winding trail leading along what 
now constitutes the .Kickemuit Road, and Market Street 
in Warren, as, in 1621, the westerly portion of Child Street* 
was a thick swamp. This visit of Winslow and Hopkins 
was the second paid by white men to Rhode Island, the first 
visit having been made by Verazzano and his companions 
nearly a century before. 

Winslow's party arrived at Sowams on the afternoon of July 
4th, but Massasoit proved to be absent from home. Mes- 
sengers were immediately dispatched after him, and he shortly 
appeared being greeted by a discharge of his white visitors' 
guns. He welcomed the Englishmen cordially and invited 
them into his wigwam, where they delivered a lengthy message 
from Governor Bradford and presented the gifts they had 
brought with them. The sachem at once donned the coat and 
hung the chain about his neck. " He was not a little proud," 
says Winslow, "to behold himself; and his men also to see 
their king so bravely attired." 

In answer to the Governor's message Massasoit made a 
long speech in which he mentioned some thirty different 
places over which he exercised jurisdiction, and promised 
that his people should bring their skins to the English. At 
the close of the speech he offered his guests tobacco and then 
"fell to discoursing" of England, King James, and the French 

* From Handy Street to Metacom Avenue. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 11 

against whom he seemed to feel a particular aversion. "Late 
it grew," states Winslow in his narrative of this journey to 
Pokanoket, "but victuals he offered none: for indeed he 
had not any; being he came so newly home, so we desired 
to go to rest." 

Upon the following day many petty sachems came to 
Sowams to pay their respects to their white allies. They 
entertained the strangers by playing various games, the 
stakes being skins and knives. The Englishmen challenged 
them to a shooting match for skins, but they "durst not" 
accept the challenge. They, however, desired one of the two 
to shoot at a mark, "who shooting with hail shot (bird shot) 
they wondered to see the mark so full of holes." This "shoot- 
ing at a mark" is the first instance of target practice by a 
white man within the limits of Rhode Island of which we 
have any record. 

On Friday morning Winslow and Hopkins took their 
departure from Sowams, carrying with them some seed corn 
which Massasoit had given them. The sachem earnestly 
entreated them to prolong their stay; but the Englishmen 
"desired to keep the Sabbath at home," so declined the invi- 
tation. They reached Plymouth, on Saturday night, "wet, 
weary, and surbated," indeed, yet with the satisfaction of 
feeling that the object of their mission had been attained. 

In March, 1623, "news came to Plymouth that Massasoit 
was like to die; and that, at the same time, there was a Dutch 
ship driven so high on the shore by stress of weather, right 
before his dwelling that, till the tides increased she could 
not be got off." Upon receipt of this intelligence Governor 
Bradford deemed it expedient to dispatch a second expedition 
to Sowams for the two-fold purpose of expressing his friend- 
ship for the Wampanoag chief and obtaining "some confer- 
ence with the Dutch." Edward Winslow was again selected 
as the government's messenger, having for a "consort" a 



12 Massasoit's Town 

certain Master John Hamden, "a gentleman of London" (sup- 
posed by some to be the famous parliamentarian of that name) 
and for a guide, the friendly native Hobbamock. The party 
followed the ancient Indian trail, and, upon nearing Mattapoi- 
set, were informed that Massasoit was "dead and buried." 
Hobbamock desired the Englishmen to "return with all 
speed" to Plymouth, but Winslow being anxious, if the 
king was indeed dead, to enter into friendly relations with 
his successor, decided to continue the journey. At Matta- 
poiset, the wife of Corbitant, sachem of the Pocassets, gave 
the travellers "friendly entertainment," and, as no definite 
information regarding Massasoit's condition was obtainable, 
Winslow dispatched a messenger to Pokanoket to ascertain 
the truth. The messenger returning in a few hours, brought 
the welcome intelligence that the chief was still living though 
critically ill. "Much revived" at these tidings, Winslow and 
his companions "set forward with all speed" and arrived 
at their destination "late within night." They found Massa- 
soit yet alive, though apparently very near his end. The 
Dutch ship, however, had departed "about two of the clock 
that afternoon," so that, as regarded one of its intents, their 
"journey was frustrate." 

This Dutch ship probably visited Sowams for trading 
purposes. The fact that it grounded " right before " Massa- 
soit's dwelling proves that the sachimo comaro (sachem's 
house) was situated on the shore of Sowams (Warren) River. 
Probably it stood not far from the spring still known as 
Massasoit's Spring. This is located at the foot of Baker 
Street in the compact part of Warren. In its natural state 
it was a powerful spring, bubbling from a bed of pure white 
sand. Many years ago it was excavated to the depth of 
about eight feet and walled up like a well. At a distance of 
five feet from the bottom a sluice-way was left, through 
which a small stream flows during the greater part of the 



Sowams in Pokanoket 13 

year and, finding its way to the surface, trickles into the 
river. The water, which never fails, is of excellent quality 
and even in warm weather remains pure and cold. 

When the Englishmen entered the royal wigwam, they 
found a great crowd of people assembled about the bed of 
the chief. "There they were," narrates Winslow, "in the 
midst of their charms for him making such a hellish noise, 
as it distempered us that were well, and therefore unlike to 
ease him that was sick." Massasoit, whose sight was gone, 
greeted Winslow with these mournful words, "Oh Winslow 
I shall never see thee again!" Winslow answered that 
Governor Bradford had sent from Plymouth certain things 
deemed by the English good in illness and, "having a confec- 
tion of many comfortable conserves etc.," on the point of 
his penknife, gave the sachem some, the juice of which 
he swallowed." Whereat those that were about him much 
rejoiced; saying "he had not swallowed anything in ten days 
before." Winslow then washed the sick man's mouth and 
gave him more of the confection dissolved in water and, 
wichin half an hour, this treatment "wrought a great alter- 
ation in him in the eyes of all that beheld him." His sight 
began to return which gave both him and his white friends 
"good encouragement." Winslow then hastily addressed 
a letter to Governor Bradford describing the "good success" 
of the expedition, and requesting that some chickens for 
broth, medicine, and other things might be sent him; and, 
with this letter, a messenger started for Plymouth at two 
o'clock in the morning. 

Massasoit, having expressed a wish for some "English 
pottage," Winslow, though "unaccustomed and unacquainted 
in such business," undertook its preparation. He "caused 
a woman to bruise some corn" which he placed in a pipkin 
and, as soon as the day broke, he sallied forth with Hamden 
in search of herbs; and, finding nothing but strawberry leaves 



14 Massasoit's Town 

gathered a handful and put them in the pot with the corn 
with a slice of "saxifrax root" to give the mixture a "good 
relish." When this gruel was sufficiently boiled, he strained 
it through his handkerchief and gave Massasoit "at least 
a pint, which he drank and liked it very well." After this 
the sachem's sight "mended more and more," indeed, so 
rapid was his improvement that, says Winslow, "we with 
admiration blessed God for giving His blessing to such raw 
and ignorant means, * * * himself and all of them ac- 
knowledging us the instruments of his preservation." 

Massasoit finding himself so far recovered, now besought 
Winslow to visit all that were ill in the town and to give them 
the same treatment that had proved so beneficial in his own 
case, saying that his people were "good folk." Winslow 
acceeded to the sachem's request though it was "much offen- 
sive to him," he "not being accustomed to such poisonous 
savours." An entire morning was spent in going from 
wigwam to wigwam, and one can imagine the commingled 
awe and gratitude with which the simple children of nature 
regarded the man who, to them, must have seemed gifted 
with divine powers. Doubtless that wondrous season of 
healing was long remembered in So warns, and doubtless the 
name of Winslow continued to remain a household word in 
the Indian village many years after its owner lay slumbering 
in his grave. 

In the afternoon, Winslow again sallied forth, gun in hand, 
to gratify the desire of the king for more "pottage" of fowl. 
He shot an "extraordinary fat" duck and with it prepared 
a broth of which Massasoit, despite all warnings, "ate as 
much as would well have satisfied a man in health." The 
result of this "gross meal" was a relapse so severe that even 
the Englishmen doubted their patients recovery. For the 
space of four hours the sick man bled profusely at the nose ; 
but, at last, the bleeding ceased and he fell into a profound 



Sowams in Pokanoket 15 

slumber from which he awakened refreshed and strengthened. 
Meanwhile the messenger returned from Plymouth with the 
chickens and other things for which Winslow had asked, but 
Massasoit "finding his stomach come to him," would not 
have the fowls killed, "but kept them for breed." These 
historic chickens were the first domesticated fowls ever 
brought into Rhode Island. So far was the sachem's health 
restored that the Englishmen dared not give him the medicine 
sent by the Plymouth surgeon. Massasoit, himself, felt 
assured of his recovery. "Now I see the English are my 
friends and love me," he exclaimed, "and whilst I live I will 
never forget this kindness they have showed me." These 
were no idle words as subsequent events proved. 

During the white men's stay at Sowams many of Massa- 
soit's friends and allies came to visit him, "some by their 
report from a place not less than a hundred miles." To all 
comers one of the sachem's chief men related the story of 
Massasoit's illness, "how near he was spent; how, amongst 
others his friends the English came to see him; and how 
suddenly they recovered him to this strength they saw; he 
being now able to sit upright by himself." But it was not 
by words alone that the "good folk" of Sowams showed 
their appreciation of the Englishmen's services to them. 
" Whilst we were there," writes Winslow, "our entertainment 
exceeded all other strangers. Divers other things were worth 
the noting," he adds, "but I fear I have been too tedious." 
Gladly would we have pardoned the worthy chronicler the 
most "tedious" description of that primeval entertainment 
which, doubtless included feasting and dancing and wild 
aboriginal sports. Of what inestimable value would it have 
been to the historian! 

But it was at the moment of his guests' departure that 
Massasoit demonstrated the depth of his gratitude to his 
preservers. Calling Hobbamock, the guide, aside he, in the 



16 Massasoit's Town 

presence of two or three of his most trusted counsellors, 
charged him to acquaint Winslow with the existence of a 
plot originated by the Massachusetts Indians against Weston's 
colony at Wessagusset and the settlement at Plymouth. 
Hobbamock faithfully obeyed his sachem's instructions. 
What would have been the fate of the Pilgrims had this timely 
warning not been given, we can only conjecture. Massasoit 
advised his white allies to "kill the men of Massachuset who 
were the authors of this intended mischief," and this advice 
they were constrained to follow. 

This second visit of the English to Sowams marks an epoch 
in the history of both red men and white. It firmly cemented, 
by mutual gratitude and esteem, the friendship first estab- 
lished on a political basis. Previous to it, Massasoit 
appears to have cherished some misgivings regarding the good 
faith of his Christian allies. But his restoration to health 
by their ministrations removed every doubt from his generous 
mind. Witness his words, "Now I see that the English love 
me and are my friends, and whilst I live I will never forget 
this kindness they have showed me." He never did forget it. 

Less than a decade after this eventful visit, an English 
trading house was established within the limits of Sowams 
of which at one period, Thomas Prince, afterwards governor 
of Plymouth colony, was "master." The location of this 
trading house has caused historians as much perplexity as 
the location of Sowams village itself. William J. Miller in his 
"History of the Wampanoag Indians" says (p. 24), "The 
trading post was supposed to have been located on the Bar- 
rington side of the river (Warren River) on the land known 
as Phebe's Neck." A little thought will convince anyone 
familiar with the Sowams region that the trading house would 
never have been placed in Barrington, for the reason that a 
wide, deep, and unfordable river lay between Phebe's Neck 
and Massasoit's town which the white men would have been 



Sowams in Pokanoket 17 

compelled to constantly cross and recross in their traffic 
with the Indians. Moreover, as early as 1652, an English 
settlement had been planted in what now constitutes the 
north-easterly porl ion of Warren on the banks of the Kicke- 
muit River, and it seems only reasonable to suppose that the 
colonists placed their homes in close proximity to the trading 
house, which, probably, was also a fort. 

Governor Winthrop of Massachusetts states in his "Jour- 
nal," under the date, April 12, 1632; "The Governor re- 
ceived letters from Plymouth signifying that there had been 
a broil between their men at Sowamset and the Narragansett 
Indians who set upon the English house there to have taken 
Owsamequin* the Sagamore of Packanocott, who fled thither, 
with all the people, for refuge; and that Captain Standish 
being gone thither, to relieve the three English which were 
in the house, sent home in all haste for more men and 
other provisions, upon intelligence that Canonicus, with a 
great army, was coming against them; on that they wrote 
to our Governor for some powder, to be sent with all possible 
speed; for it seemed they were unfurnished. Upon this, 
the Governor presently despatched away the messenger with 
so much powder as he could carry, viz., 27 pounds. The 
messenger returned and brought a letter from the Governor 
(Bradford) signifying that the Indians were retired from 
Sowamsett to fight the Pequots." 

The Narragansetts feared and disliked the white men. 
The Old Indian Chronicle states that they were jealous of 
Massasoit "because he had, from the first, been in high favor 
with the English." Naturally they would have viewed the 
establishment of an English trading post at Sowams with 
displeasure. Whether their hostility to the whites led to 
the "broil" at Sowams, or whether, as has been suggested,! 

* Another name of Massasoit. 
t Durfee, "Whatcheer." 



18 Massasoit's Town 

they invaded Pokanoket for the purpose of compelling Mass- 
asoit and his warriors to assist them in repulsing the Pequots, 
may be only conjectured. Standish, perhaps fearing a 
second incursion, remained at Sowamset until some time in 
May* 

In course of time, the trail leading from Plymouth to 
So warns became a familiar path to the people of the Pilgrim 
settlement. The Plymouth records show that Edward 
Winslow made, at least, one more visit to Pokanoket, and 
that John Alden, Samuel Nash, and others, also journeyed 
there. All who explored the Sowamset district perceived 
that it was, like the valley of Eshcol, "a good land," and the 
idea of establishing a plantation within its limits seems to 
have been entertained by the Plymouth government for 
some years before such a settlement was actually begun. 

The most famous sojourner at Pokanoket, in those early 
days, was Roger Williams. Banished from Salem, in January, 
1636, he "fled from the savage Christians of Massachusetts 
Bay to the Christian savages of Narragansett Bay." In 
"a bitter winter season," he made his way through the wild 
forests to seek a new home in the domains of Massasoit, the 
friend of white men. The best authorities believe that 
Massasoit gave him shelter at Sowams village until the spring 
broke. Williams himself, writes, "When I came (to the 
Narragansett) I was welcome to Ousamequin," and "I testify 
and declare, that, at my first coming into these parts, I 
obtained the lands of Seekonk of Ousamequin." If circum- 
stantial evidence be of any value, Warren has certainly good 
grounds on which to base its claim to the honor of having 
been the first spot in Rhode Island pressed by the foot of the 
State's illustrious founder. It is a fact worthy of note that, 
one hundred and twenty-nine years after Roger Williams 

* Winthrop. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 19 

sought refuge with Massasoit, Rhode Island's great educa- 
tional institution (Rhode Island College, now Brown Univer- 
sity), began its career within a few rods of the site of the royal 
wigwam which, presumably, sheltered the Salem exile. 

On September 25, 1639, Massasoit and his eldest son, 
then known as Mooanam, "appeared at Court and renewed 
the ancient league with the Plymouth government," Massasoit 
"acknowledging himself a subject of the King of England." 
Thirteen years later, as we find by the records of the colony, 
an English plantation, "rated" at the value of £01:10:00, 
existed at Sowams. This settlement was located on the 
banks of the Kickemuit River in the north-easterty part of 
the present town of Warren. It was completely destroyed 
by the Indians during King Philip's war;* but, as late as 
Revolutionary times, the remains of its cellars and hearth 
stones were still visible. Its northern limit extended to 
what now constitutes the boundary line separating Warren 
from North Swansea. Its southern limits approached 
within less than a mile of the Indian village of the same 
name. At just what date the first log cabin of a white settler 
was erected at Sowams we have no means of ascertaining; 
but it is not unreasonable to suppose that the little hamlet 
grew up, slowly, around the old trading house. f 

The Kickemuit River is a picturesque stream which, rising 
in Swansea, winds along the shores of Warren and Bristol and 
empties into Mount Hope Bay at a point called by the Indians 
"Weypoiset," by the English the "Narrows." On the west 
bank of the river, near the site of the old boundary line of 
Warren and Bristol, is a living spring still known as Kicke- 



* Morton's Memorial, Appendix, 463. 

t The late Miss Annie E. Cole, who spent many years in collecting his- 
torical data relating to Warren, believed that the trading post occupied 
a central location upon the west bank of the Kickemuit, near the "wading- 
place" before mentioned. 



20 Massasoit's Town 

muit Spring.* The soil in the vicinity of this spring is mixed 
with oyster, clam, and quahaug shells to the depth of several 
feet, and from it various aboriginal implements have at dif- 
ferent periods been exhumed. It is evident that an Indian 
village once occupied the locality, f 

The main trail winding from Kickemuit to So warns was 
intersected by shorter paths leading to various sections of 
Pokanoket. The Metacom Avenue of today, familiarly known 
as the "Back Road," is identical with the trail worn by 
moccasined feet in travelling to and from Mount Hope. 
Another trail closely following the lines of the present Kicke- 
muit Road, School House Road, and Swansea Road, led to 
what is now North Swansea, and passed the "national grind- 
ing mill" of the Wampanoags,J a large flat rock located on 
the west side of the Swansea Road at a point very near the 

* On the east shore of the river, a few yards below the "wading-place," 
could be seen less than a century ago, the remains of an Indian "hot-house," 
a cell-like chamber constructed of stone and built into the river bank, 
having in its centre, a flat bed of stone, the whole enclosure measuring 
about eight feet in length. The savages made use of the sweating-bath 
in sickness or to cleanse their skins of accumulations of dirt, paint, and 
grease. A huge fire was built on the rude fireplace of the "hot house," 
being removed after the chamber became thoroughly heated. The In- 
dians then seated themselves around the hot stones, and remained "for 
an hour or more," says Roger Williams, "taking tobacco, discoursing 
and sweating together." After thus profusely perspiring they plunged 
into the water, to cool their bodies. 

t The Indians accounted for the serpentine course of Kickemuit River 
thus. Ages ago, they said, a deluge covered the whole face of the earth. 
When the waters subsided, a certain divinity who inhabited Pokanoket, 
feeling hungry sallied forth in search of food. Espying a huge eel basking 
in the mud, he raised his spear aloft but the eel, perceiving his design, 
began wriggling rapidly in the opposite direction. As it twisted, first to 
the right then to the left, its pursuer was obliged to also constantly turn 
and turn and soon became so fatigued that the eel easily out-distanced 
him and finally plunged into Mount Hope Bay. The track left in the 
mud by pursued and pursuer eventually became the bed of the Kicke- 
muit River. 

% See Appendix. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 21 

line separating Massachusetts and Rhode Island. There 
were other paths leading to Birch Swamp in the north- 
easterly part of Warren, to Poppasquash (the name then 
applied to the westerly part of Bristol), and to a ferry over 
Sowams River by means of which connection was made between 
Massasoit ; s town and Chachacust, (a neck of land in what is 
now Barrington). The two last mentioned trails are identical 
with North and South Main Streets in Warren. 

From the "wading-place" a trail ran eastward a short 
distance and then branched off towards Touiset, Mattapoisett, 
and other localities. A careful study of the early records of 
Swansea and Warren has convinced the writer that, in laying 
out highways, the original settlers of the towns, in many 
instances, merely widened the ancient trails used by the 
Wampanoags for no one knows how many centuries prior 
to the arrival of the Mayflower in Cape Cod Bay. 

The Plymouth government having established a settlement 
at Sowams, "the garden of their patent,* " granted "certain 
worthy gentlemen" of the colony leave to purchase land in 
the Sowamset district. Negotiations were immediately 
entered into with the Wampanoag chief, which resulted in 
the sale of "Sowams and Parts Adjacent" by Massasoit 
and his oldest son Wamsutta (Mooanam or Alexander), in 
March, 1653. The purchasers of these "Sawomes Lands," 
which included the greater part of Pokanoket were Thomas 
Prince, Thomas Willett, Miles Standish, Josiah Winslow, 
William Bradford, Thomas Clark, John Winslow, Thomas 
Cushman, William White, f John Adams and Experience 
Mitchell. The price paid was thirty-five pounds sterling, 
and the reader scarcely needs to be told that the Englishmen 
"got the best of the bargain." Why Massasoit consented 

* Callender's Historical Discourse. 

t William White died, 1621. The actual purchasers were his two sons, 
Resolved and Peregrine. 



22 Massasoit's Town 

to "sell his birthright," is a question more easily asked than 
answered; gratitude probably influenced him, in part. He 
never forgot that he owed his life to his English allies. Pos- 
sibly, too, the wise statesman, realizing the superiority of 
the white man's civilization, believed his people would be 
benefitted by closer relationship with them. He is said to 
have warned his sons that if they ever engaged in war against 
the English they would meet with defeat. 

The Sowams proprietors did not immediately enter into 
possession of their entire purchase. By a clause in the "Grand 
Deed of Saile," they were restrained from occupying "the 
neck" (i. e. Mount Hope Neck*) until such time as the Indians 
should remove therefrom, the term "neck" as used, however, 
really signifying only the "uplands," or central portion of 
what now constitutes Warren and Bristol. The meadows 
(i. e. marshes) on either side the "great river," (Sowams 
River), Kickemuit River, and in and about Poppasquash and 
Chachacust were the only portions of the territory which 
actually passed into their hands at the date of sale. These they 
at once proceeded to divide. The boundaries of the several 
"lots" are plainly described in the "Records of Sowams and 
Parts Adjacent" and may be easily traced on a map of Bristol 
County, R. I. The lots apportioned within the limits of 
Indian and English Sowams fell to the share of Captain 
Miles Standish, Experience Mitchell, Resolved and Peregrine 
White, Thomas Willett, John Adams, Thomas Prince, and 
John and Josiah Winslow. 

The lot of Captain Standish included the marshes on both 
sides of Kickemuit River from the source of the stream to 
"the passage where they have usually gone over with canoes" 

* The English gave the name of Mt. Hope Neck to the peninsula formed 
by Sowams River and Narragansett Bay on the west and Kickemuit River 
and Mt. Hope Bay on the east. It is a tract nine miles in extent, of which 
one mile is in North Swansea, three miles are in Warren and the remaining 
five miles, including the hill from which the neck is named are in Bristol. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 23 

i. e. the "wading-place." Standish also had land on the 
east bank of the river from the wading-place to a "certain 
creek" running towards the upland. His next neighbor on 
the south was Experience Mitchell whose "meadow" extended 
from the creek before mentioned to "Clark's Creek." Be- 
yond Mitchell's land that of John Adams stretched from 
"Clark's Creek" to "Rocky Run;" while, still farther south, 
the lot of Resolved White ran from "Rocky Rim" to "Wey- 
poisett," the "narrows" of the river. Resolved White also 
possessed a strip of marsh on the west bank of the stream 
which began at the "passage with canoes" and ended at a 
"broaken red oak tree" whose location no man now knoweth. 

The northern boundary of Captain Thomas Willett's lot 
was marked by this same " broaken oak tree " and its southern 
boundary line was very near the "narrows." In addition 
to this land Willet had a s(rip of marsh on the east bank of 
Sowams River. South of this strip was the lot of John 
Winslow, and south of Winslow's meadow was a tract of land 
belonging to Peregrine and Resolved White. Willett's 
meadow was apparently bounded by Massasoit's village on 
the north, the marshes of which were not divided, undoubt- 
edly having been reserved by Massasoit for the use of his 
people. 

The land on the east shore of Belcher's Cove, an arm of 
Sowams River, fell to the share of Thomas Prince. On the 
west side of the Cove the meadows "to the head thereof" were 
laid out to Josias Winslow and the Whites. The Sowams 
Purchase" was a speculation, and the original proprietors 
did not long retain their land. That they were no losers 
by their investment is proved by the fact that Peregrine 
White sold his share for £40 pounds, five pounds more than 
was paid the Wampanoags for the entire territory bought. 

From 1652 until the death of Massasoit in 1660, peace 
between the white men at English Sowams and the red men 



24 Massasoit's Town 



at Indian Sowams remained uninterrupted. The civilized 
farmer and the savage warrior appear to have each dwelt 
quietly under the shadow of his "own vine and fig tree" 
Doubtless the inhabitants of Massasoit's town were more or 
less affected by every day intercourse with their white neigh- 
bors. They must have learned many things unknown to 
the savages of districts remote from English settlements. 
Firm as was his friendship for the white men, however, Massa- 
soit, Hubbard states, "was never in the least degree well 
affected to the religion of the English " and would fain have 
forced them to promise "never to attempt to draw away 
any of his people from their old pagan superstition and devilish 
idolatry." He lived and died a heathen, clinging pertina- 
ciously to the faith and gods of his fathers. 

In 1658 the Plymouth government voted to raise a troop 
of horse "out of the several townships to bee reddy for ser- 
vice when required." Each horse was to be "well appointed 
with furniture, viz.; a saddle and a case of petternells." * 
Sowamsett contributed one trooper to this company. 

For several years prior to the death of Massasoit, Wamsutta, 
or Alexander, was associated with his father in the govern- 
ment of the Wampanoags, and when the great chief's spirit 
fled from earth to Sowaniu, the paradise of the red man, 
became the sachem of the tribe. He does not appear to 
have made his father's town his own headquarters, but to 
have resided at Mount Hope. Probably his village stood 
near, or upon, the site of that occupied at a later date by his 
brother Philip. Philip's town was not located as many 
writers have erroneouly stated, upon the mount, itself, but 
at a point about a mile and a half north of it and near the 
"narrows" of Kickemuit River. At and about this spot, 
relics of the aborigines have been disinterred in considerable 

* "Petronel, a kind of carabine or horseman's pistol." Webster. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 25 

numbers, and the remains of an ancient Indian burial ground 
was discovered there several years ago. 

Soon after the death of his father Wamsutta repaired to 
Plymouth and "professing great respect/' desired the Court 
to bestow English names upon himself and his younger brother. 
The Court acceded to the request and named the sachem 
"Allexander Pokanoket," his brother (Metacom) Philip, 
presumably after Alexander the Great and Philip of Macedon. 
For a brief period succeeding this event, the old time friend- 
ship of Wampanoag, and Englishman remained apparently 
undisturbed. 

In 1660 the "rates" of Sowams were increased to £02:10:00. 
The little hamlet was slowly gaining in population and im- 
portance. During this year, the Court ordered a pound 
erected at Kickemuit, as Wamsutta complained that corn 
belonging to his people had been injured by swine, the property 
of the English. In Jane, 1661, Sowamsett and "all the 
naighbors there inhabiting" were placed under the "ward" 
of Rehoboth, and it was decreed that twenty shillings of 
Sowams' rates should "be allowed for the easing of Sandwich 
rates." 

Alexander's good faith began to be questioned by the 
English early in 1662. The governor of Plymouth colony 
having been informed that the sachem was endeavoring to 
persuade the old-time enemies of the Wampanoags, the 
Narragansetts, to join him in a revolt against the whites, 
deputed Captain Thomas Willett to investigate the truth 
of the report. Upon visiting Mt. Hope, Captain Willett was 
assured by Alexander that the Narragansetts had fabricated 
the story in order to injure the Wampanoags in the eyes of 
the English. The chief agreed to attend the next session 
of the Court at Plymouth that the charges against him might 
be fully investigated; yet when the Court convened he failed 
to appear being, it was said, at that very date upon a visit 



26 Massasoit's Town 

to the Narragansett country. The government decided to 
deal peremptorily with him and, accordingly, Josias Winslow, 
then Major Commandant of the Colonial militia, was de- 
patched to bring him to Plymouth by force. Winslow and 
his party came upon the sachem, suddenly, at a hunting 
lodge near Munponset Pond in the present town of Halifax, 
Mass.; and, when Alexander declined to accede to the Court's 
demand, Winslow presented a loaded pistol at his breast 
threatening him with instant death if he persisted in his 
refusal. Alexander and followers were almost helpless, 
their guns which had been stacked outside the lodge having 
been seized by the English before entering, and consequently, 
after a parley, and at the earnest entreaty of his people, 
the sachem yielded to the inevitable and, accompanied by 
his wife and a long train of warriors and squaws began the 
march towards Plymouth. Upon reaching Duxbury he 
was entertained at Major Winslow's house, pending the 
arrival of orders from Governor Prince who resided at East- 
ham. But the haughty spirit of the Wampanoag king could 
ill brook the humiliation of arrest and imprisonment, and 
Alexander was soon smitten with a raging fever induced 
by grief and anger. The best medical skill was summoned 
to attend him, but he sank rapidly, and his terrified followers, 
believing him poisoned by the English, entreated to be allowed 
to carry him to Mt. Hope, promising to return with him as 
soon as he should recover and offering to send his son* as 
a hostage. Their request was granted and with all possible 
speed they started on the homeward journey. They bore 
their chief on a litter until they reached Titicut where they 
embarked in canoes, but had proceeded only a short distance 
down the river ere they perceived that he was dying. They 
immediately drew their frail barks to the shore, lifted him 

* The name of Alexander's son is unknown. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 27 

from the canoe, and tenderly placed him upon the grass. In 
stoical silence they awaited the end; and, when, the last 
fluttering sigh had escaped the pallid lips, they replaced 
the form of the dead sachem in the canoe, grasped their 
paddles and, with hearts burning with grief, anger, and thirst 
for revenge, pushed swiftly and silently down the stream. 

The tragic death of Alexander, — the direct result of the 
bold and perhaps unwise policy of the Plymouth govern- 
ment — broke the first link in the chain of friendship that had 
bound Wampanoag and Englishman together. The sullen 
attitude of the savages awakened anxiety among the colonists, 
and it was with some alarm that those dwelling at the 
Sowams' settlement beheld a vast concourse of savages 
gathered at Mt. Hope to mourn for the dead chief and to 
celebrate his brother Philip's accession to the sachemship. But 
the feared outbreak of hostilities did not occur. Whatever 
Philip's real feelings were, he apparently desired to live in 
amity with the English; and a few months after becoming 
the head of his tribe renewed the "covenant" which Massa- 
soit had made with the government of Plymouth. He 
does not seem to have, at first, felt a prejudice against the 
Christian religion for, in the winter of 1663-4, he and his 
people sent to John Eliot for "books to learn to read and to 
pray unto God." Eliot's son twice visited Pokanoket and 
taught among the Wampanoags, and from a letter ad- 
dressed by Eliot to the United Colonies in 1664, it appears 
probable that the apostle, himself, labored at Mt. Hope in 
1664-5. 

The hamlet by the Kickemuit continued under the ward 
of Rehoboth during 1663 and 1664, being ordered to so re- 
main until such time as the " naighborhood " should be in 
a capassitie and desire to be a township of themselves." In 
1664 Sowams was rated at £2:05:00; in 1666 at £07:17:06; 
in 1667, at £10:10:00. During this same year, ''Wannamoi- 



28 Massasoit's Town 

sett* and Parts Adjacent" were incorporated as a township 
under the name of Swansea. The charter granted it de- 
scribed the township as "all such lands that lyeth betwixt 
the salt water Bay and coming up Taunton River all the land 
between the salt water and river and the bounds of Taunton 
and Rehoboth." It will readily be seen that the site of 
Warren was included within the bounds of this extensive 
territory. The history of Sowams thus became merged in 
that of Swansea, less than a score of years after its commence- 
ment, and from the annals of Swansea the chronicler must 
glean the facts that make up its final chapters. 

It is not within the province of this sketch to discuss at 
length the causes which led to that mighty struggle between 
savagery and civilization known is history as King Philip's 
War. For some years after he became sachem, Philip main- 
tained an outward show of fealty to the English. But as 
time went on the relations of red men and white became 
strained. The Indian saw the forests rapidly vanishing be- 
neath the colonist's axe, and realized that the game on which 
he depended for sustenance would, also, soon disappear. 
He was forced to sell his lands for the necessities of life, and 
he complained bitterly, and too often with reason, of wrongs 
inflicted upon him by his white brother. Moreover, he was 
fast becoming debased by the vices of civilization. Philip 
was a statesman and a patriot. He loved his country and 
his people. In the increasing power of the English he saw 
presaged the downfall of his race. He resolved to attempt 
the extermination of the usurpers. His fertile brain evolved 
a scheme for a union of the various native tribes against 
the common foe. The English suspected his designs, yet 
he many times adroitly baffled their watchfulness. The 
fates, however, were against him, and he was destined never 
to work out the salvation of his people. 

* See Appendix. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 29 

In 1675, John Sassamon, a Christian Indian employed as a 
sort of private secretary by Philip, warned the Plymouth 
government that his master was plotting against it. Philip 
discovered the perfidy of Sassamon, and shortly afterward, 
the dead body of the latter was found beneath the ice in 
Assawamset Pond in Middleborough. The English doubted 
not that Sassamon had been put to death by the sachem's 
order. They arrested three savages whom they charged 
with the murder, tried them before a jury composed of twelve 
Englishmen and four Indians, and sentenced them to death, 
though two of them maintained their innocence to the last. 
Philip had been summoned to Plymouth to testify regarding 
his own connection with the murder, but he was too wise to 
obey an injunction, so fraught with peril. Instead, he openly 
hurled defiance at his accusers. 

His first overt act was committed within the limits of 
Sowams. "A little before the Court," the Plymouth Records 
tell us, "Philip began to keep his men in armes about him 
and to gather strangers unto him and to march about in 
armes toward the vperendof the Necke on which he lived and 
neare to the English houses whoe began thereby to be 
somewhat disquieted but tooke as yett noe further notice 
but only to sett a military watch in the next Townes as 
Swanzey and Rehoboth." The Indians, however did not 
long confine themselves to stalking about and flourishing 
their weapons. Their powwows, or priests, having prophesied 
defeat to which ever party should shed the first blood in 
the conflict, they sought to provoke the English to attack 
them by shooting their cattle, frightening women, and insult- 
ing travellers. On the 18th or 19th of June, Job Winslow's 
house * was "broken up and rifled" by them. On Sunday, 

* After the close of Philip's war, Job Winslow erected a "dwelling house " 
near the " wading- place " at Kickemuit on what is now the farm of Mr. 
Edward Ennis. It is probable that the house "broken up" by the 
Indians occupied this same site. 



30 Massasoit's Town 

June 20th, a party of eight warriors fully armed, invaded 
the hamlet. They knocked at the door of a colonist and 
demanded permission to grind their hatchets. Upon being 
told that the grinding of hatchets on the Lord's Day was 
a sin they replied, "We know not who your God is and we 
shall grind our hatchets for all you or your God either." 
They then proceeded to another house where they helped 
themselves liberally to food. Continuing along the road 
they met an Englishman whom they took prisoner, but later 
dismissed, after enjoining him not to work on the Lord's 
Day and to tell no lies. 

As they proceeded on they began to shoot the cattle in 
the fields, encountering no resistance as nearly all the settlers 
were in attendance at public worship. At length they reached 
a house whose owner was not at church. They killed his 
cattle, then entered the house and demanded liquor, which 
being refused they attempted to seize by violence. The 
Englishman infuriated, snatched up his gun and fired, seriously 
injuring one of the savages. The Indians immediately retired, 
bearing the wounded warrior with them, and breathing 
threats of vengeance. Back through Sowams they swiftly 
wended their way to their own territory. Tradition says 
that at Kickemuit Spring they met Philip, who wept when 
he heard their story, and there seems little reason to doubt 
the truth of the tradition. Though he had long meditated 
war, the sachem was not yet fully prepared for it. Events 
unforeseen had, however, hastened the crisis. He found 
it impossible to curb the impatience and fury of his younger 
warriors, and though he had failed to complete his cherished 
scheme for a general uprising of the red men, he could no 
longer delay open battle with the enemy. Perhaps a prophetic 
foreboding of defeat forced the tears from his eyes. 

The raid upon Sowams was the beginning of a reign of 
terror that extended over every portion of Swansea. The 



Sowams in Pokanoket 31 



Plymouth government, upon being notified of the condition 
of affairs, immediately dispatched companies of militia to 
the assistance of the distressed township. On June 22d, 
six men were killed or mortally wounded at Mattapoiset. 
Thursday, June 24th, was appointed a day of fasting and 
pra}' , er, and as some of the colonists were returning from 
church they were fired upon by the Indians with the result 
that one man was killed and another wounded. During 
the same day "six men were killed in another part of the 
town." On the 28th, William Hammond was killed and "one 
Corporal Belcher" wounded while scouring the "enemy's 
territory" between Miles' garrison* at North Swansea and 
the Sowams' settlement. On the 29th, a party of Indians who 
had shown themselves near the garrison were pursued by 
the English towards Sowams but made their escape into a 
nearby swamp. f That night Philip, fearful of capture, 
abandoned Mt. Hope Neck retreating across the bay to 
Pocasset, now Tiverton. One of the last acts performed 
by the savages ere quitting the home of their ancestors, was 
the final destruction of Sowams. Hubbard tells us that 
on the following day the entire English force (which had 
concentrated at North Swansea) marched from Miles' garri- 
son towards Mt. Hope. At a point about a mile and a half 
below the bridge near the garrison they "passed by some 
houses newly burned" and "not far off one of them they 
found a Bible newly torn and the leaves scattered about by 
the enemy." These charred ruins and torn and scattered 
leaves were all that remained of English Sowams, ill-fated 
Sowams, strangely destined to be destroyed by the same 
hands that had nurtured it in its infancy. Two or three 
miles further on, at the "Narrow* of the Neck" on the west 

* This was located in what is now Barneysville. The bridge over 
Palmer's River near its site is still generally called "Miles' Bridge" 
t Birch Swamp in the north-easterly part of Warren. 



32 Massasoit's Town 

bank of Kickemuit River the soldiers discovered the "heads, 
hands, and scalps" of eight Englishmen, murdered at Matta- 
poisett, "stuck up on poles near the highway," close by the 
spot which must have been pressed by the feet of Winslow 
and Hopkins when, journeying from Plymouth to Pokanoket 
in 1621, they crossed the " wacling-place " at Kickemuit and 
entered Sowams for the purpose of continuing the "league 
of peace and friendship" with Massasoit, and of securing 
from the savage chief the supply of seed corn which the feeble 
colony of Plymouth then stood sorely in need of. 

The site of English Sowams remained desolate from that 
eventful June day until some time after the close of the war 
which soon followed the death of King Philip in August, 1676. 
About 1678, settlers began to rebuild along the Kickemuit, 
and the old "ways" and "bridal paths" laid out "long 
since" by the Sowams' colonists were re-surveyed, descriptions 
of them being carefully recorded. Most of these ancient 
highways are in use at the present day. There being no 
Indians left on Mount Hope Neck, the territory now occupied 
by the town of Bristol and the compact part of Warren, 
passed into the possession of the successors of the original 
Sowams' proprietors, by virtue of the deed executed by Massa- 
soit and Wamsutta in 1653. By an arbitrary act, King 
Charles transferred the site of Bristol to Plymouth, but that 
of Warren became a part of Swansea. As early as 1671, the 
last mentioned district was known by the name of "Brooks' 
Pasture," undoubtedly from some right of ownership in it 
possessed by Timothy Brooks.* What that right was the 
writer has been, thus far, unable to discover, though a careful 
and diligent search of the early records has been made in the 
hope of solving the mystery. At different periods, between 
1681 and 1725, Brooks' Pasture — with the exception of the 
meadows or marshes divided in 1653 between Thomas Prince 

* See Appendix. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 33 

and his partners in the Sowams' purchase — was laid out and 
divided among the proprietors there being, in all, eight several 
apportionments of land made. 

It is uncertain at what date the first dwelling house was 
erected in the western part of Brooks' Pasture. In 1746, 
that section of Swansea now occupied by the two towns of 
Barrington and Warren was ceded to Rhode Island, incor- 
porated as a township, and given the name of Warren in honor 
of Admiral Sir Peter Warren, the hero of Loulsburg and 
Cape Breton. W T arren's proximity to the ocean, and its 
excellent harbor facilities, early led the inhabitants to engage 
in maritime pursuits; and, in course of time, the wharves, 
and shops, ship yards and dwelling houses of a flourishing 
seaport sprang up to replace the vanished wigwams of Massa- 
soit's town, Sowams in Pokanoket. 




dk 



Appendix 

Some Notes on the Family of Massasoit 

Massasoit had two brothers, Quadequina and Akkompoin. 
When Massasoit visited Plymouth, March 22, 1621, he was 
accompanied by Quadequina who is described as a "very 
proper, tall young man, of a very modest and seemly counte- 
nance." It is supposed that Massasoit took the name of 
Ousamequin upon the death of Quadequina. 

Akkompoin, Uncompawen, or Woonkaponehunt, was one 
of King Philip's counsellors. He signed the treaties made 
by Philip with the English at Plymouth, August 6, 1662; 
at Taunton, April 10, 1671; and at Plymouth, September 
29, 1671. He was killed by the English, while attempting 
to cross Taunton river, July 31, 1676. 

Namumpum, alias Tatapanum, alias Weetamoe, the wife 
of Mooanum, alias Wamsutta, alias Alexander, alias Sopaquitt, 
Massasoit's eldest son, is known in history as the "Squaw 
Sachem of Pocasset." She is supposed to have been the daugh- 
ter of Corbitant of Mattapoiset. At ihe time of her marriage 
to Alexander she was the widow of an Indian named Weeque- 
quinequa. Soon after the death of Alexander she wedded 
a third husband Quiquequanchett, of whom nothing definite 
is known. She married, fourth, Petownonowit, who espoused 
the English cause during Philip's War, in consequence of 
which his wife separated from him and formed an alliance 
with Quinnapin, a young Narragansett sachem, and one of 
Philip's chief captains. Weetamoe followed the fortunes 
of Philip throughout the war. She was drowned in Taunton 
River, near Mattapoisett, August, 1676. Alexander had a 
son, but of his history nothing seems to be known. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 35 

Metacomet alias Pometacom, alias King Philip, alias 
Wewascowanett, Massasoit's second son, married Wootone- 
kanuske, a sister of Weetamoe. They had two children, one 
of whom died in 1671. The other, a boy of eight, was, with 
his mother, captured by the English, August 1, 1676, and, 
after the death of Philip, both mother and son were shipped 
to the West Indies and sold into slavery. Of their subse- 
quent fate there is no record. 

Sunconewhew was the third son of Massasoit. His name 
appears upon a deed given by Philip, March 30, 1668, con- 
firming the sale of the town of Rehoboth made by Massasoit 
in 1641. It is said that King Philip had a brother killed, 
July 18, 1675, who was a great captain and had been educated 
at Harvard College. This was probably Sunconewhew. 

Massasoit had a daughter Amie. She married Watuspa- 
quin, or Tuspaquin, chief of the Assawamset Indians, gener- 
ally called by the English the "Black Sachem." She is 
probably the "sister of Philip" who was captured by the 
English, July 31, 1676. Her husband was put to death by 
the Plymouth authorities in September, 1676. Descendants 
of Tuspaquin and Amie are living, the last of the royal race 
of Massasoit. For an authentic and interesting account of 
them the reader Is referred to "Indian History, Biography 
and Geneology" by Ebenezer W. Pierce of Freetown, Mass. 
published, 1878, by Zerviah Gould Mitchell, sixth in line of 
descent from Tuspaquin and Amie, his wife. 

Historic Localities in and About Sowams 

Touiset. Indian name of a neck of land lying between 
Kickemuit and Cole's Rivers. The western portion of it is 
in Warren, the eastern in Swansea. Indian relics have been 
exhumed from its soil, and, perhaps an Indian village was 
once located upon it. April 10, 1673, Tottomommuck, 



36 Massasoit's Town 

sachem of Seaconnet (Little Compton, R. I.), sold "land in 
Swansea called Towsett," * to Nathaniel Paine. In the 
early records of Swansea Touiset is generally termed "The 
Sheep Pasture." It was laid out in 106 lots which were 
divided among the Swansea proprietors in 1686. In July 
1675, a great concourse of Philip's warriors gathered at 
Touiset, near the "narrows" of the Kickemuit River, "to eat 
clams, other provisions being scarce." Captain Benjamin 
Church, then at Pocasset (Tiverton), greatly desired to sur- 
prise and capture this body of the enemy; but, as he had 
peremptory orders to proceed from Pocasset directly to Mt. 
Hope, he was compelled to allow them to remain unmolested. 

After the close of Philip's war, the remnant of the Wam- 
panoags fled to Maine, and ultimately became merged in 
the Penobscot tribe. Up to half a century ago, parties of 
Penobscot Indians were in the habit of making periodical 
visits to Warren, camping for several days in various parts 
of the town. Before returning to Maine, they invariably 
paid a visit of a few hours to what is known as the "Hicks' 
Farm" on Touiset Neck, though for what purpose this par- 
ticular locality was visited they never divulged. 

King's Rocks, the "National Grinding Mill" of the 
Wampanoags. The following article, contributed by Gen. 
Guy M. Fessenden, appeared in the "Warren Telegraph" 
issue of June 2, 1860. 

"Mr. Editor: An interesting discovery in reference to the 
aboriginal history of this town has recently been made. Mr. 
Francis Loring, an intelligent Indian, and a member of the 
Penobscot tribe, who has been in this vicinity for several 
weeks, informed the writer that the tribe had in their posses- 
sion, and which they carefully preserved among their national 
archives, an ancient book made of skins, containing many 
descriptions of important historical localities, some of which 

* Taunton Records. 



Sowams in Pokanoket 37 

are in this vicinity, all of them in the ancient Indian style 
of signs and picture writing. One of these pictures repre- 
sents four men rolling a heavy circular stone, by a stick 
placed through a hole in the centre, back and forth over a 
quantity of corn, and described as the Wampanoag national 
grinding mill, where corn was ground for war parties or for 
any large public gathering of the people. 

"The locality of the place was so plainly stated that Mr. 
Loring had no difficulty in finding it. It is at the place 
called King's Rocks" in Warren, near the Swansea line 
about two miles from the village. On the west side of the 
mass of rocks is a nearly level smooth surface of rock about 
twenty-five feet by eight feet in width. In this level place 
are three regular, narrow, straight depressions. They appear 
evidently to have been worn into the rock by some forcible 
attrition, and are, in fact, just such hollows as might be made 
by the cause assigned. 

"These worn places have heretofore attracted notice and 
speculation, but the true cause of their existence has not 
before been known by late generations, and the idea of a 
national grinding mill, or of pulverizing corn by a rolling stone 
in connection with Indian history will probably be new to 
every one. 

"As confirmatory of the locality, Mr. Loring says the pic- 
ture has upon it another hill of somewhat peculiar appearance 
(a large rock upon the summit) situated about a mile east 
of the grinding place, named, he thinks Wigwam Hill.* 
Leading from this hill towards the setting sun are two hun- 
dred and forty human steps, the line of steps terminating 
in three skulls which denotes a burial place. Mr. Loring 
visited the hill (now called Margaret's Hill from the last 
Indian woman who resided there) and pacing off 240 steps 

* This hill is on the farm of Mr. Edward Mason, Birch Swamp Road, 
Warren. 



38 Massasoit's Town 

west came to an Indian cemetery, which he verified by dig- 
ging, and finding human remains. 

Mr. Francis Loring, known also by the name " Big 
Thunder" is now living, at an advanced age, on Indian Old 
Town Island, Maine, and is the custodian of the Penobscot 
tribe. The writer recently learned from him that the "ancient 
book made of skins" alluded to by General Fessenden was, a 
few years ago, accidentally destroyed by fire. 

The Penobscot language contains several words which are 
undoubtedly of Wampanoag or Narragansett origin. This 
tribe regard Warren, R. I., as the former home of Massasoit. 
They translate the word Sowams, "Place of the Setting Sun." 

Wannamoisett. The northern part of Barrington extend- 
ing into Seekonk, and including Bullock's Point and River- 
side. It was purchased of the Indians by John Brown, 1645. 
Became a part of Swansea, 1668. 

Chachacust. The neck of land lying between Barrington 
and Warren, or Palmer's Rivers. Called by the English, New 
Meadow Neck, or the New Meadows. Under the date 
December 7, 1647, the "New Meadows " are referred to, in the 
Plymouth Records, as being "on the west side of Sowams 
River" which proves that Sowams River and Warren River 
are identical. King Philip claimed that a portion of Chachacust 
was not included in the sale of "Sowams and Parts 
Adjacent," and the English purchased his right in 1668. 

Popanomscut. The southerly section of Barrington. It 
was called by the English "Phebe's Neck," and appears to 
have been the abode of Pebee, or Thebe, a petty Wampanoag 
sachem, and one of Philip's counsellors. Thebe was killed 
by the English July 2, 1675. At the close of Philip's war 
Plymouth Colony claimed Popanomscut as "conquered 
land," but the Sowams' proprietors succeeded in establishing 
their right to the tract under the provisions of the "Grand 
Deed of Saile" of "Sowams and Parts Adjacent." 



Sowams in Pokanoket 39 

In Roger Williams' "Key" occurs the word "paponaum- 
suog" which is thus denned: "A winter fish which comes 
up in the brooks and rivulets ; some call them frost fish from 
their coming up from the sea into fresh brooks in time of 
frost and snow." Every one familar with Warren River 
is aware of the fact that, with the arrival of cold weather, 
great quantities of frost fish appear in its waters, swarming 
close to both the Barrington and Warren 6hores. The 
similarity of the two words " Popanomscut " and "paponaum- 
suog" suggests the question: May not the former word have 
been derived from the latter, and may not its meaning be 
"place of frost fish" or something of similar signification? 

Popanomscut was laid out and divided among the pro- 
prietors between 1676 and 1680. 

Chachapacaset. Rumstick Neck in Barrington. The 
name Rumstick was applied to the neck in 1697, and at first 
only to a locality as "Rumstick on Chachapacaset." Some 
authorities believe the word Rumstick to be of Norse origin. 

Nayatt. The south-west point of Barrington. 

Moscachuck Creek. It runs from the brickyard at 
Nayatt into Narragansett Bay. 

Annawomscott. That section of Barrington now known 
as Drownville. 

Scamscammuck Spring. Located at the upper end of 
Chachapacasset. 

Mosskituash Creek. This flows into Bullock's Cove at 
Riverside. 

Poppasquash Neck. Poppasquash, though originally used 
to indicate the entire western part of Bristol, is now only 
applied to a small peninsula surrounded by the waters of 
Bristol harbor on the east and Narragansett Bay on the 
west. 

The " Miery Swamp." The swamp at Mount Hope where 
King Philip was slain August 12, 1676. 



40 Massasoit's Town 

"King Philip's Chair." A niche in the eastern side of 
Mount Hope in which, according to tradition, King Philip 
was accustomed to sit for the purpose of reviewing his war- 
riors, practicing target shooting, etc. Near the "chair" is a 
spring of pure water. 

The Grand Deed of Saile of Lands from Osamequin and 
Wamsetto his son, dated 29th March, 1653. 

To All People to whome these presents shall come, Osama- 
quin and Wamsetto his Eldest Sone Sendeth greeting. 
Know Yee, that wee the said Osamequin & Wamsetto, for 
& in consideration of thirty-five pounds sterling to us the 
said Osamequin and Wamsetto in hand payd By Thomas 
Prince Gent: Thomas Willett Gent: Miles Standish, Gent: 
Josiah Winslow, Gent: for And in the behalfe of themselues 
and divers others of the Inhabitants of Plimouth Jurisdic- 
tion, whose names are hereafter specified, with which said 
summe we the said Osamequin and Wamsetto doe Acknowl- 
edge ourselues fully satisfyed contented and payd, Haue 
freely and absolutely bargained and Sold Enfeoffed and Con- 
firmed and by these presents Doe Bargaine Sell Enfeoffe 
and Confirme from us the said Osamequin and Wamsetto, 
and our and Every of our haiers unto Thomas Prince, Thomas 
Willett, Miles Standish, Josia Winslow, Agents for themselves 
and William Bradford, Senr, Gent: Thomas Clark, John 
Winslow, Thomas Cushman, William White, John Adams 
and Experience Mitchell, to them and Every of them, their 
and Every of their haiers and assigns forever; — 

All those Severall parcells and Necks of Vpland, Swamps and 
Meadows Lyeing and being on the South Syde of Sinkunch Els 
Rehoboth, Bounds and and is bounded from a Little Brooke of 
water, called by the Indjans Mosskituash Westerly, and so 
Ranging by a dead Swamp, Estward, and so by markt trees 
as Osamequin and Wamsetto directed unto the great River 
with all the Meadow in and about ye Sydes of bothe the 



Sowams in Pokanoket 41 

Branches of the great River wth all the Creeks and Brookes 
that are in or upon any of the said meadows, as also all the 
marsh meadow Lying and Being wth out the Bounds before 
mentioned in or about the neck Called by the Indians Chacha- 
cust, Also all the meadow of any kind Lying and being in or 
about Popasquash neck as also all the meadow Lyeing from 
Kickomuet on both sides or any way Joyning to it on the 
bay on Each Side. 

To Haue And To Hold all the aforesaid vpland Swamp 
Marshes Creeks and Rivers withe all their appurtinances 
unto the aforesaid Thomas Prince, Thomas Willett, Miles 
Standish, Josia Winslow and the rest of the partners aforesaid 
to theme, And Every of them their and Every of their haiers 
Executors And assignes for Ever And the said Osamequin and 
Wamsetto his Sone Covenant promise and grant, that when- 
soeuer the Indians Shall Remoue from the Neck that then 
and from thence forth the aforesaid Thomas Prince, Thomas 
Willet, Miles Standish, Josiah Winslow shall enter vpon the 
Same by the Same Agreement as their Proper Rights And 
Interests to them and their heirs for Ever. To and for the 
true perforemance of all and Every one of the aforesaid severall 
Perticulars wee the said Osamequin, and Wamsetto Bind 
us and every of us our and every of our heirs Executors 
Administrators and Assignes ffirmly by these presents. 

In Witness whereof wee haue hereunto sett our hands and 
Seales this twentieth day of March, anno Domini, 1653. 
The marke of 

Osamequin, & a (Seale). 

Wamsetto, W. & (Seale). 

Signed Sealed and Delivered 
in ye Presence of us 
John Browne 
James Browne 
Richard Garrett. 



42 Massasoit's Town 

Timothy Brooks 

Timothy Brooks was the son of Henry and Susan Brooks 
of Woburn, Mass. He married (1st), 1659, December 2, 
Mary, daughter of John Russell. She died at Woburn, 1680. 
He married (2d), 1680, Mehitable, daughter of Roger and 
Mary Mowry, and widow of Eldad Kingsley of Swansea. 
Timothy Brooks had several children of some of whom we 
find record as follows : 

Timothy, born, 1661, October 9. Married, 1685, November 
10, Hannah, daughter of Obadiah and Abigail (Bullock) 
Bowen. He was a Baptist minister. Removed from Swansea, 
Mass., to Cohansey, N. Y. 

John, born about 1662. Married (1st) Martha, daughter of 
Hugh and Mary (Foxwell) Cole (b. 1662, April 16; d. 1711); 
married (2d) Tabitha Wright of New York. She died, 1714, 
November 19, aged 30 years. He died, 1714, November 22, 
aged 52 years. 

Mary, married Samuel, son of William and Susannah 
Salisbury (b. 1666, May 17), and died ). Samuel Salis- 
bury married (2d) Jemima Martin. 

Elizabeth, married, 1689, April 10, Thomas Lewis. 

Hepsibath, born, 1673. Married, 1694, May 22. Pelatiah, 
son of Sampson and Mary (Butterworth) Mason, (b. 1669, 
April 1), and died, 1727, August 24. He married a second, 
third, and fourth wife and died, 1763, March 29. 

Rebecca, married, 1696, November 6, Melatiah, son of 
John and Joanna (Esten) Martin. He was born, 1673, 
April 30, and died, 1761, January 30. 

Abigail, married Levi Preston. 

Josiah born, Swansea, Mass., 1681. Removed to New York. 

Timothy Brooks resided at different periods, at Woburn, 
Bedford and Swansea, Mass. During King Philip's war, his 
family were protected at "Garrison No. 10" at Bedford, 



Sowams in Pokanoket 43 

which stood near his residence, now known as the "Old Page 
House." After the death of his first wife, 1680, he removed 
to Swansea. He was "admitted into ye second Ranke" 
at Swansea 1680, November 12. Freeman, 1681. Granted 
liberty "to set up a Saw Mill on Mattapoisett River at the 
upper falls and four acres of Land to accommodate the same 
adjoining," 1681, November 11. One of "the Grand En- 
quest," 1682, June 6. Granted liberty to "keep Entertainment 
for Travellers" 1684, January 1. Commissioned Lieutenant 
of the Swansea Company, 1686, June 4. Promoted to be 
Captain of the Company, 1690, May 20. 

Timothy Brooks resided in that part of Swansea now 
Warren, and, in 1690, was one of the fence viewers appointed 
for Kickemuit district. His hostelry was the first ever opened 
within the limits of Warren. Judging by deeds recorded at 
Swansea and Warren, it was located on the east side of Bel- 
cher's Cove on the Swansea Road. His estate consisted of a 
house, barn, and out-buildings and 110 acres of land, which 
he sold to John Barney of Bristol, May 15, 1702. 




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